So, I’ve decided to embark on a four week journey to La Paz, Bolivia. An opportunity presented itself and I took the bait! Through Child Family Health International, I will be spending a month living with a homestay family, attending Spanish language lessons, and learning about pediatric health at local hospitals and clinics.
Please join me on my Bolivian adventure … Welcome to Mallory Goes to Bolivia!
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Reflections on Bolivia
For one, I am surprised at how well I adjusted to living on my own in a different country. Prior to going to Bolivia, I anticipated a fair amount of culture and language shock. I even prepared myself for nights of feeling lonely and just in case, I packed lots of comedic movies to lift my mood and bring familiar American culture to my lonely Bolivian bedroom. However, I can happily report that I did not need a single one of those movies, and although I missed my family and certain aspects of life in the U.S., I was happy— really happy— in Bolivia!
Mostly, I believe my avoidance of culture shock is due to the amazing group of friends I had with me. Joanna, Erica, and Annie are some of the most open, fun, and caring individuals I have ever met, and I am so lucky to have had them with me! – So if you guys are reading this, thank you so much for sharing this experience with me and making it what it was!! You are all awesome and I will miss each one of you!
I was also surprised at how welcoming Bolivians were to us “outsiders.” In other countries, I have felt slightly less than welcome: weird tourist stares, inappropriate comments, etc. However, in La Paz, people really couldn’t care less where you are from, or what you are doing in their country. As far as they are concerned, their lives are too busy (and probably too interesting) to really care who you are. That sense of anonymity really helped me feel like a regular, Bolivian resident.
Another important lesson I have learned while in Bolivia concerns healthcare. Regardless of the problems of our healthcare system, I am so grateful that we have all the newest technology, treatments, and facilities at our disposal. Yes, there are major flaws with our medical system, but a child would never be refused necessary treatment because his parents could not afford it. Can you imagine living in a country where you know there is a treatment for your child’s illness, but there is nothing you can do for him/her simply because of where you live? Yet, despite the drawbacks of their medical system, Bolivian parents and patients are so kind and gracious for what they do have – a refreshing but sad reality.
Perhaps this is just a mild case of reverse culture shock, but immediately upon my entrance into Miami, I noticed that American culture includes an aspect of attitude and perhaps snobbery. Although it’s probably an unfair generalization of my fellow U.S. citizens, one of the first things that struck me in the airport was, gosh, Americans are rude!! In particular, a few custom agents and some passengers made me miss the quiet respect Bolivians have for one another.
Funnily, upon my return, I also had to continually remind myself to speak in English! I have become so accustomed to using simple Spanish pleasantries such as, “Hola, buenos dias, gracias, etc.” that I find it strange that people here speak English! Haha! My Spanish skills have undoubtedly improved while in Bolivia; however, I still wouldn’t describe myself has conversational (maybe at most minimally conversational). I mean, I can get my point across, but my verb conjugations still require a fair amount of thinking before speaking. I believe it would take me a minimum of 4-6 months living in a Spanish-speaking country to really develop fluidity of speech. Maybe we spent a little too much time speaking English with each other? Alas, I hope to continue to study/practice Spanish here at home.
Ahh! As we speak, we are starting to descend into the New York area, and I can't help but smile. Mostly because I know Peter will be there waiting for me, but I also feel a deep sense of accomplishment and satisfaction. I had a wonderful time in Bolivia and wouldn't change a thing. I now have countless memories and experiences that are absolutely priceless. I gained confidence in my ability to rely on myself and have fallen in love all over again with the values of travelling and experiencing the world. Bolivia is undoubtedly a beautiful country, and I am grateful to have visited such a place. The people, the landscapes, and the culture have so much to offer, and I consider myself lucky to have experienced the even the smallest amount.
Thank you, Bolivia, for opening my mind and for providing me with a wonderful home over the past few weeks. You are an inspiration, and I am humbled and gracious to have known you.
All the best,
♥ Mallory
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Last Day
For my last day in La Paz, Joanna and I are going to bum around the city for the day … We are going to start with a yummy waffle breakfast at the new Dutch restaurant, then we’ll hit the markets one more time for last minute souvenirs, and finally, we’ll head down to Zona Sur (the wealthier side of town) for some window shopping and a relaxing dinner before heading home in the morning!
Friday, September 3, 2010
Days of Lasts
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Last Week in La Paz
... This is probably the perfect rotation to round out my clinical experience in Bolivia! :)
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Weekend of Bolivian Wonder
I think this past week has been my favorite here in Bolivia. Last weekend we ventured down to the Salt Flats of Uyuni, drove through the gorgeous mountains, and visited with flamingos, vicunyas, and other faunal residents of the Bolivian “wilderness.”
We spent our first night on a bus – yes, it was an 11 hour bus ride from La Paz to Uyuni. Luckily, the bus was fairly comfortable if only a little bumpy.Plus, the recline-able seats, leg rests, reasonable heat, and Dramamine allowed me to sleep through 75% of the night.
Our first stop was a train graveyard. At the start of the desert, there is a deserted rail line, with abandoned, rusted, graffiti-ed train cars. Not very exciting, but interesting I guess? Next, we headed to the Salar – and oh my gosh, it is absolutely gorgeous! Although in our pictures, it appears as if we are in a vast expanse of snow, the blinding whiteness is all salt!! We stopped at an island in the middle of the salar to have lunch and take some silly, but oh so fun pictures in the Salar.
The following day, we woke up early enough to see the sun rise, then headed out to see the colored lagoons. Although not appreciable in the pictures, some of the lagoons are home to specific species of algae that make the water appear pink! What a sight! The lagoon was also full of flamingos (who apparently get their color from eating the algae?)!!
That night, we stayed in a ¨hotel¨aka icebox. After a freezing night with no hot water, no heating, and minimal warm blankets, we woke up at 5 am and drove to the nearby geysers – Ack, it was sooooooo cold, but also so worthwhile to arrive at the geysers with the sun rising, and the moon still hanging on for the last few minutes of nighttime (or first moments of the morning).
We did and saw so much, that I can only give you the highlights here, but between each destination, there were awe-inspiring landscapes that frequently prompted us to stop our car so we could get out, take pictures, and wallow in the splendor of nature. One stop even included rock formations that are rumored to be the inspiration to many of Dali’s paintings!
Now, I know that I haven’t traveled to many countries, but this weekend absoltely convinced me that Bolivia has to be home to some of the most beautiful, unspoiled landscapes in the world!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Off to the Salar!
We will be completely out of communication for the next few days as people on the Salar only have radio as means of communication! So until then, enjoy! ♥
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Feliz Cumpleanos, Pedro!
Heather´s Here!
The town center was just as lazy as our weekend. With little more than a handful of restaurants and a few hippies selling some handmade jewelry, Coroico is really not an eventful town and left us wanting a little more.
Unfortunately, however, I was sick for most of the weekend, and spent the majority of my time laying on the above mentioned couch recouperating. Despite my illness, it is so nice to have Heather and Shirin here with me, as I think I was getting to the point where I needed to have family around <3.
Busy in Bolivia!
So, I finished out the week at Servicios de Adolescentes finding more babies in uteruses, running around with the doctor to and from different places, and listening to the woes of local teenagers (pregnancy, STD concerns, school stress) -- very similar to those in the U.S.
Needless to say, sexual education is severely lacking in the lives of young Bolivians, and thus, many young women become pregnant and/or contract STIs prematurely and unnecessarily!Although I don't know how much of an impact we will make in our broken Spanish, my fellow CHFIers and I will prepare a presentation on safe sexual practices and the signs, symptoms, and treatment for common STIs here in Bolivia ... this should be interesting!
Thursday, August 19, 2010
La Gymnasia
Due to the altitude, I was a bit nervous for my first workout. So I decided to take it easy today: 20 minutes on the elliptical, minimal ab work, and only 2 sets of exercises with the free weights. Although I must say, the altitude did affect my workout. After the first 15 minutes on the elliptical, I thought perhaps I should stop, but I powered through and did not pass out! My little 5 pounds weights also felt a little heavier here, but perhaps that’s because I have not been to the gym in about 1 month! Oops!
Overall however, how did it feel to work out again? Pretty darn good – yay for endorphins!
Erica and I are going to try out the pilates class this week, and if we are feeling really optimistic, we may even attend a spin class! Maybe we will be superathletes when we return home due to our increased tolerance for low-oxygen states?!
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Servicios de adolescentes
The clinic mainly serves pregnant adolescent females. Due to the lack of proper education about birth control and contraception, countless teenage girls end up pregnant, with no options other than to raise her child(ren) on her own.
I enjoyed my first day here. Annie and I got some basic hands-on experience including palpating for the fetal lie in the mother’s uterus, measuring the height of the mother’s growing belly, and even finding the fetal and placental sounds using a small portable sonography device.
The most challenging aspect of this clinic is the complete lack of ingles spoken here. However, la doctora would like us to prepare a 20 minute presentation on any topic related to adolescent health -- ack!! I will definitely keep you posted on how this plays out ...
Addicted to Pasankalla
They are sold on the streets of Copacabana, in large bins, and for less than $1 (or 5 bolivianos) you can get a large bag to take with you. Although native to Copacabana, I know I’ll find Pasankalla somewhere in La Paz to satisfy my cravings, but I wonder where I can get some Pasankalla in New York?
Sunday, August 15, 2010
La Estancia, Ecolodge
Although exhausted from a packed day of traveling, altitude, sunshine, and beautiful vistas, we had one more challenging hill to climb before arriving at La Estancia, a beautiful, romantic ecolodge situated on the hills of La Isla del Sol over Lake Titicaca. So, we dragged our tired bodies up the imposing hill, stopping frequently along the way to catch our breaths, only to realize that every fatigued step was more than worth it.
La Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia
Next, we headed back out onto the water to our next destination where we visited some ruins and enjoyed Aptapi, a traditional lunch of the island. The lunch consisted of chicken, trout, dried sardine-like fish, 3 different kinds of potatoes, chocla (corn with kernals the size of dimes), beans, cheese, and fruit.
Her Name was Lola …
This weekend, we said goodbye to La Paz and headed to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca! We left Friday afternoon in our private minivan and drove 3 hours through the beautiful Bolivian countryside to Copacabana, a small town on the coast of Lake Titicaca. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking!! The countryside consists of large rolling hills, but because of the altitude, there is not much greenery. The hills are brown and the soil appears very dry, but apparently this is the perfect climate to grow lots of different species of yummy potatoes! In the distance beyond the hills, huge, gorgeous snowcapped mountains rise out of nowhere, which makes the climate here a bit perplexing … during the day, we walk around in t-shirts, get a little sunburnt, but if we look up, snow covered mountains are not too far off in the distance. Then once the sun sets, it’s time to break out the scarves, hats, gloves, and llama sweaters!
After our pre-dinner treat, we headed back to Hotel Gloria and had a relaxing evening of dinner, wine, and stunning views of the lake. Tired from our travels, we hit the sack pretty early and rested up for our next adventures …
Friday, August 13, 2010
First Week of Spanish Lessons and First Week in Hospital del Nino!
Wow, speaking only in Spanish for two straight hours is taxing on my brain! After every Spanish class, I feel mentally exhausted, but also a sense of accomplishment. My Spanish teacher, Cynthia, is nice but very strict when it comes to the rule of “No Ingles!” Although the topics we cover in class are pretty basic, such as when to use Usted vs. Tu and how to congujate verbs in the past, not using any English is challenging!
In addition, this past week was the 37th anniversary of Hospital del Nino, so I attended a special conference covering numerous lectures on various pediatric health issues. It was hard for me to follow the discussions as they spoke very quickly and used complicated medical terminology. I’m trying to remain optimistic that this will become easier with time, but unfortunately, I’m starting to realize that four weeks is not enough time to really get a handle on Spanish.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Random Post of Thanks! :)
- Day 1: Near fainting in airport, oxygen therapy, throbbing headache
- Day 2: Minor headache, tingling fingers from Diamox (altitude sickness med), short of breath when walking
- Day 3: Headache completely gone! Stopped taking Diamox (didn't like the tingles), only short of breath when walking up steep hills or walking too fast (like a New Yorker)!
- Day 4: Acclimated (mostly)! Considering joining a gym to work off these huge almuerzos!! :)
First day at Hospital del Nino!!
Wow, Hospital del Nino made quite an impression on me! I don’t quite know what I was expecting, but the hospital was a lot older and poorer than I imagined. I realize that may sound a bit elitist, but I want to give you my honest impression. The building is pretty old and the hospital units look like they are out of a movie from the 1920s. There are large open rooms, with beds in a row along both sides of the room. There are no IV pumps, no central lines (even for chemo), and even general supplies are very limited.
Regardless of the appearance of the hospital, however, the children are the same here and back home – they love to smile and play, and they also get the same diseases (for the most part). Also, the doctors and nurses here are very professional, very smart, and have excellent bedside manners!
Orientation and Spanish Assessment
We had our orientation yesterday with Gonzalo. He gave us a mini tour of the area, handed out our clinic schedules, and then briefly talked about safety while in Bolivia – very short and sweet.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Gooooooooool!!!
So, I have met all the other CFHI participants: Marissa, Erica, Joanna, and Annie. Last night, we went out for dinner at a local restaurant (a very cheap local restaurant) and got to know each other a little bit. Luckily, Marissa has already been here for a month with CFHI, and Erica has been here for a week taking Spanish lessons, so they have a lot of valuable knowledge to share – especially when it comes to navigating the city.
Anyway, I don’t know if it’s the altitude, or just the adjustment to travelling, but I’m beat and I’m going to hit the sack now (even though it’s only 9:30pm). So adios for now!
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Almuerzo (lunch)!
In Bolivia, lunch is the main meal of the day. Almuerzo is the largest meal of the day and serves as time for families to spend together -- many Bolivians are able to go home from their jobs for almuerzo and even a brief siesta! As Senora explained, Americans are overweight because we eat large meals for dinner then go right to bed! Haha!!! – But sadly, she is correct.
I’m going to have to learn a polite way to kindly turn down offered food as I am not accustomed to eating that much midday!
Meeting the homestay family!
After dropping Joanna off at her lovely apartment, we pull up in front of a large gated house, where Gonzalo says, “This is you!” My host mother greeted us at the gate and gave me a kiss on the cheek – what a warm welcome! She seemed about my mother’s age and my first impression was that she could have been the mother of any one of my friends back home.
Once inside, I immediately noticed that they have the same area rug that Peter’s parents have in their living room back home in Long Island –haha!! I took this as a good sign and immediately felt a sense of home – yes, all because of that green rug (I'll try to sneak a pic of it at some point)!
My bedroom is on the top floor of the house. I have a twin bed, a nice big window, a desk, and a wooden armoir all to myself. I share the floor with the family’s 16 year old son. His bedroom is next to the bathroom and across the living area from my room.
After settling in, I feel comfortable here, but I am still trying to figure out proper homestay etiquette. I want to engage the family and learn from them, but I also do not want to seem intrusive – after all, this is their home, which they have kindly opened up to me and other students. Yet, on the other hand, while giving them privacy, I also do not want to seem standoffish or aloof. So this will be a learning process …
Bienvenidos a La Paz! Pero bienvenidos a la altitud tambien!
Coming to La Paz has been quite the experience so far! After taking off a bit late from Miami, I had a restless sleep on the red eye to La Paz. Upon arrival in Bolivia, I immediately felt the effects of the altitude!! Most noticeably, my heart was beating a little faster and harder than usual and I had minimal traces of a headache.
Luckily, after a few minutes on oxygen, I felt good as new, relieved, and slightly embarrassed. After leaving the medic station, the long line of passengers had cleared out, and I set out to retrieve my bags and meet our local CFHI coordinator, Gonzalo.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Goodbye LGA, Hello MIA!
Before I left today, I told my family and Peter that they were not allowed to cry when saying goodbye. They each strongly held up their end of the bargain and said their nice goodbyes. I, on the other hand did no such thing. Although I wouldn’t say I cried, my departure was definitely a tearful farewell. Nevertheless, I gave my hugs and kisses, and got on the security line to quickly regain my composure and start my solo journey to Bolivia.
I anticipate a month of excitement, nervousness, growth, and perhaps a little self-discovery – or as much as one can learn about the self in 4 weeks. Ok, so that was my brief philosophical moment.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Bolivia Bound! (Departure Date!!!)
Semester = Done! Next up = Bolivia! (4 days until departure)
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
"Hay tortugas en mi reloj!" (There are turtles in my watch!)
I decided that I should have a watch in Bolivia, so I bought a new one today! Since I work in settings where I am exposed to lots of germs, and I constantly have to wash my hands, I prefer to have two watches: one for clinicals and one for other occasions. However, my clinical watch recently stopped working, so I was on the hunt for a new one.Friday, July 23, 2010
"Taking care of business"

Tuesday, July 20, 2010
"Departure date sneaking up!" (2.5 weeks until departure)

Friday, July 9, 2010
"Spanish Lesson 1"
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
“Estoy aprendiendo espanol!” (1 month to departure)

My departure date is quickly approaching and the nerves are really starting to kick into gear! No, travelling solo is not what makes me most nervous. In fact, I am fairly certain that I will find my way there, will be safe, and will learn a lot. What makes me most nervous is the potential communication barrier that will exist between myself and everyone else there! My Spanish language skills definitely leave something to be desired, so it is time to cram!
Luckily, a friend has kindly agreed to tutor Heather and me in Spanish. Did I mention this friend is a Harvard graduate and has created amazing powerpoint slideshows for our lessons? I believe I am in good hands and these additional lessons will jumpstart my language skills to the next level, or shall I say al siguente nivel!


